An
electric water heater is not too
terribly hard to install if you
know anything about electricity.
Start by checking the
manufacturer's specification
about the amount of power
required by the unit that you
plan to install. This applies
not only to voltage, but to the
amount of amps the heater will
require for optimum performance.
Most
water heaters that you will
install require 220/240 volts to
drive them. The amp load will
range between 30 and 60 with
most being either 30 or 45. If
you are replacing a currently
installed unit, more than
likely, you will only need a
minor amount of material and
skill to accomplish this task.
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Start by finding the breaker
that powers the water
heater. Check it to
make sure it is rated with
at least enough amps and
volts to carry the new load.
You will find it almost
always is. If it is 110/120
volts or handles only a low
amp load, you may need to
replace it. Turn it off.
Unscrew the cover that
houses the electrical
connections. Use a meter to
verify that the power is off
at the unit.
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Disconnect the wires.
Turn off the water
supply for the water heater.
Using an appropriate size
wrench, remove the cold
water supply and the hot
water outlet. You can now
hook a hose to the valve on
the bottom of the heater and
drain it to the nearest
place. If you are at ground
level or above, you might
want to just let it run out
on the ground. Do not let
the hot water run where
someone might be burned by
it.
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When the heater is empty,
you can slide it out of the
way and slide the
new one into place. This can
be done by one person if you
are strong enough, but two
people make this a much
easier job. Once the new
unit is in place, if
everything lines up,
reconnect it. If not, take
measurements for the needed
pipe alterations and get the
materials to complete the
hook up.
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If your wire is too short, I
would recommend that you run
new wire from your
circuit box so that you do
not have a junction that
could develop into a fire
hazard. It is rare that you
would not have plenty of
wire, but take care in this
area.
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Once all of the connections
are complete and tight, turn
on the water to the unit.
Open a hot water faucet in
the house to drain the air
from the tank and lines.
Once water runs freely
without air bubbles, turn
off the faucet and return to
the heater. Check carefully
for water leaks and tighten
any fittings that are
seeping water. Turn on the
power. You should hear the
elements start to make some
sound as they warm up.
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If everything is going good,
replace the covers
over anything that is
exposed. The job should be
complete except for
disposing of the old tank.
It should be taken or sent
to a landfill or recycling
center if one is available.
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If you have to install a new
heater where it is not a
replacement, the procedure
is the same except
you may have to run the
wiring and water lines. If
the house has been roughed
in for a water heater,
everything should be there
just like in a replacement
situation. If not, then you
have some additional work to
do.
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If you have never ran water
or electric, I recommend
that you either recruit some
serious help with
experience or call a
professional. It is beyond
the scope of this article to
tell you how to plumb a
house or wire it. However,
if the plumbing is in place
for the hot water, you will
need to run cold water from
the nearest point to the
utility area where the water
heater will sit. Install a
cutoff valve on the cold
water near the tank so that
you can work on the water
heater without having the
water turned off to the
whole house.
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Go to the electric panel and
install the correct
type of breaker to power the
new appliance. For 220/240
volts, you will need the
double width breaker that
attaches to both sides of
the circuit box. Attach the
ground wires on the correct
posts. Buy enough wire to
have about 5 to 10 extra
feet in case you have to
take a route around
something that you did not
anticipate. Do not attach
the breaker in the box until
you have complete the
connections on the water
heater.
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Wire everything up,
make the water connections
and follow the procedure for
a replacement unit to
complete the job.